Way out in the Hantam Karoo, Calvinia offers an enticing mix of 19th-century architecture, hearty cuisine and small-town peace – with a dash of eccentricity. By James Bainbridge
1. Out and about
Calvinia Museum
Occupying an art deco-style former synagogue, the dorpie’s surprisingly large museum covers the settlement and development of the remote region – with particular reference to that important local activity, sheep farming. The bucket pump, flour mill, cobbler’s- and blacksmith’s workshops and many soap- and candle-making utensils convey a sense of farming life in times past. Displays of Victorian dress, porcelain and brass evoke the more genteel side of the early European settlers’ lifestyle. Look out for the local telephone switch-board (used until 1991) and, of course, the mounted sheep. Also here is the Calvinia Tourism Office, which happily arranges local walks and activities.
44 Church Street, 027 341 8131
2. Out and about
Republic of Rustica
Road signs, sheep skulls, tin cups, watering cans, bed pans, old shoes, bicycles and farm implements … and that’s just the exterior of this temple to Karoo eccentricity. Dirk and Sonja van Rensburg are the offbeat owners of the rambling collection of found objects, vintage gear and general junk that straddles the blurry line between shop and personal hoard – with a B&B thrown in too. Dirk is a big part of the fun, offering wisecracking tours of his curios and oddities.
For an entertaining photo op, wander round the corner to Hoop Street, where a water tower has been converted into a giant postbox. Letters mailed here, we’re told, receive a special flower postmark.
37 Stigling Street, 027 341 1423
3. Out and about
Akkerendam Nature Reserve
North of town, this 27 500 ha reserve has one- and two-day hiking trails, both offering an experience of stark, unspoilt Hantam Karoo scenery. Akkerendam is a bird sanctuary, and the Kareedam provides an oasis for migratory birds. Keen birdwatchers can spot more than 65 species, including the uncommon cinnamon-breasted warbler. Hikers can look out for the endemic sterboom and summit the mountain to enjoy vistas that stretch on forever. Pick up a hiking permit at the Calvinia municipal office.
20 Hoop Street, 027 341 8500
(municipal office)
4. Eat and drink
Die Blou Nartjie
In the novel setting of yet another old synagogue (Calvinia once had a much larger Jewish population), this guest house restaurant is a good place to try some local meat. The Hantam lamb –raised on the surrounding plains – is a taste sensation, the biltong is cured locally, and the steaks are aged for at least two weeks before hitting the grill. The attractive building, dating to 1820, is also a pleasant spot at which to enjoy seafood, burgers and traditional dishes such as Karoo lamb pie.
35 Water Street, 027 341 1263
www.nartjie.co.za
5. Eat and drink
Hantam Vleisfees
On 26 and 27 August, the Hantam Meat Festival throws the spotlight on the region’s mouth-watering lamb. Spits turn across town, which throngs with local farmers and tourists alike as bands play boeremusiek and the odd reel dance sends dust flying. The annual festival began in 1990, and the weekend’s winning lamb dish usually follows more or less the same recipe it did 25 years ago.
027 341 8219, www.hantamvleisfees.co.za
6. Out and about
Namaqualand Flower Route
In late August and early September, sleepy Calvinia finds itself at the centre of flower season – a major fixture on the national calendar attracting visitors from far and wide. The spring wildflower bloom transforms the parched terrain of the Namaqualand into a multicoloured carpet. In addition to enjoying the pretty flowers on Akkerendam Nature Reserve’s hiking trails, you can drive the Hantam Flower 4×4 Route, which traverses an escarpment north of town. Enquire at the tourist office for access to the trail, which follows a dry riverbed where huge fig trees cling to rocky cliffs. As another option, the unpaved R364 is a stunning drive to Clanwilliam and the Cederberg via several mountain passes, including the Pakhuis Pass.
44 Church Street
027 341 8131 (tourism office)
7. Eat and drink
Die Hantam Huis
Dating to 1853, Calvinia’s oldest house exemplifies mid-19th-century building methods with its thatched roof, wooden shutters and T-shaped layout. Restored over the course of about a decade and declared a national monument in 1983, it is now a charming mixture of local museum, curio shop and characterful restaurant. Pop in here morning, noon or night for traditional food. Start the day with a hearty breakfast featuring skilpadjies (minced lamb’s liver wrapped in caul fat and grilled); enjoy a snack of milk tart with moerkoffie, rooibos or home-made ginger beer to energise you for the long drive to Carnarvon or Clanwilliam; and end off with hearty bobotie or waterblommetjiebredie –served by candlelight.
42 Hope Street, 027 341 1606
www.calvinia.co.za
AA Quality Assured accommodation in and around Calvinia
Die Blou Nartjie
(AA Quality Assured Highly Recommended status)
Offering eight fully equipped, stylish bedrooms, Die Blou Nartjie has pretty much everything you could need for a comfortable stay when visiting Calvinia. All eight rooms are equipped with DStv, en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning (and you’ll need it, both in the heat of summer and the frigid winters). There is also a licensed restaurant on site and a delicious breakfast is served every morning, included in your room rate. Guests can spend a relaxed afternoon using the braai facilities and swimming pool, then rest assured knowing that their vehicles are safe in the secure parking. Be sure to head out for a walk around the historical town, and to take in a breathtaking Karoo sunset.
35 Water Street, 027 341 1263
www.nartjie.co.za
Rolbos Guest House
(AA Quality Assured Highly Recommended status)
According to the friendly folks at Rolbos, Calvinia is just the spot for city dwellers looking to get out into the fresh country air for some hiking, mountain biking, birdwatching and all-round big Karoo sky. The history of the town is rather captivating, and clearly presented at the Calvinia Museum and tourist office.
By far the most vibrant time to visit is during August and September, when the landscape comes alive in an ocean of wildflowers.
Guests can choose between the well-equipped self-catering or B&B accommodation. Other meals can be arranged. There is also internet, and depending on which room you select, you can expect DStv, air conditioning, braai facilities, a kitchen and, of course, safe parking. There are conference facilities too, which can accommodate a maximum of 20 people.
15 Paul Kruger Street, 027 341 1666 www.rolbos.co.za
Photography Gallo/Gettyimages
(This article was first published in the winter 2016 issue of AA traveller magazine)
