Home to Rhodes University and one of the world’s largest arts festivals, Grahamstown offers history and culture year-round with its academic atmosphere, gracious buildings and proud past. By James Bainbridge
Out and about
Church Square
Grahamstown’s architecture ranges from late Georgian to art deco, and examples of much of it can be found on this grand square. Overlooked by weathered edifices and dreaming spires, it encapsulates the spirit of this British-built city surrounded by the African bush.
The 19th century Anglican cathedral is unmissable, as are the colourful Victorian and Edwardian shops. In Birch’s, you can see the pulley system once used to move money across the department store.
High Street
Out and about
Guided tours
See a different side of the town with a tour of Fingo Village, one of SA’s oldest townships – built on land ‘given’ to the amaFengu people by the British, in exchange for their support in the Cape Frontier Wars. Accredited guide Otto Ntshebe runs tours on foot (three hours, R250) or by donkey cart (half-day, R550), including visits to a local home, gallery and shebeen.
082 214 4242, ottours@webmail.co.za
For spooky thrills, Brian Jackson’s ghost tours explore Grahamstown’s haunted sites, where the phantom residents include nuns, Jesuit brothers, and a typesetter in the Grocott’s Mail newspaper building. The tour is paid for by donation and should be booked 24 hours in advance.
083 768 0193, info@whethu.com
Out and about
Museums
It’s no surprise educational attractions are plentiful in this university town. They delve into all sorts of subjects, from the recordings and instruments at the International Library of African Music (ILAM), to the prehistoric coelacanth in the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity (SAIAB). And don’t miss The Observatory Museum, housing a camera obscura, which magically creates an image of the town via a series of lenses.
ILAM, Prince Alfred Street, 046 603 8557 www.ru.ac.za/ilam
SAIAB, Somerset Street, 046 603 5800 www.saiab.ac.za
The Observatory Museum, Bathurst Street 046 603 8111, www.ru.ac.za/albanymuseum
Out and about
1820 Settlers National Monument
Climb the hill through the university campus to this monument commemorating the hardy British settlers and their contributions to South Africa. The structure, which opened in 1974, doubles as a theatre. It is decorated with artwork reflecting local history, including scaffolding to symbolise the continued input of English-speaking South Africans. For a small donation, security guard Griffiths will guide you through the building to the balcony for a panoramic view of the town, with the Winterberg and Amathole mountains beyond.
Fort Selwyn Drive, Gunfire Hill
046 603 1100, www.foundation.org.za
Out and about
Wildlife viewing
Addo Elephant National Park (www.sanparks.co.za) with its many pachyderms is100 km away, making it a possible day trip from Grahamstown. Numerous private reserves, meanwhile, are more conveniently located, lining the N2 en route to Addo. Amakhala (www.amakhala.co.za) and Pumba (www.pumbagamereserve.co.za) both offer day tours for a little under R1 000, including a guided drive and lunch (Amakhala throws in a river cruise too). Or, for a taste of real wilderness, head north-east to the 45 000 ha Great Fish River Reserve (www.visiteasterncape.co.za), where you’ll need a 4×4 or sturdy bakkie to spot black rhinos, hippos, kudus and buffaloes.
Eat and drink
Haricot’s Deli & Bistro
Eavesdrop on faculty gossip at the best eatery in Grahamstown. Haricot’s is part refined restaurant, part relaxed courtyard cafe, completely foodie haven. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, with Asian and Moroccan twists, leading to gourmet dishes such as pork loin in milk and braised lamb with white wine.Named after the humble bean, it claims, with typical varsity humour, to appeal to ‘cool beans, string beans and fine beans’. Also a great place to assemble a picnic, its deli heaves with wholesome goodies including quiches, pastries and speciality items such as gluten-free muffins and flourless chocolate cake.
32 New Street, 046 622 2150
www.haricots.co.za
Eat and drink
Rat & Parrot
For many years now, the Rat & Parrot has been the centre of Grahamstown’s student party scene. Come here to meet the stars of tomorrow (although they may be trying hard not to think that far ahead after a few Jägers). Like other pubs in this area, the sprawling establishment has the essential ingredients of rugby on the TV and guys at the bar sporting beards their moms would disapprove of. The Parrot, though, is a finer bird than the rest, serving popular pizzas and looking dapper after renovations. The downstairs bar is wood panelled and cosy, while the upper floor has big windows and a veranda overlooking the street.
59 New Street
046 622 5002
AAQA Quality Assured accommodation in and around Grahamstown
Temba Private Game Reserve
(AA Quality Assured Highly Recommended status)
This reserve is located a short drive from Grahamstown, on the road to Kenton-on-Sea.
Guests stay in seven luxury suites, four of which have indulgent outdoor showers. You can choose between king-size or twin-bed configurations, as well as convenient interleading rooms if you are travelling with your family. Rooms all have underfloor heating, DStv and air conditioning.
From quiet dinners on the patio or in front of the fireplace to friendly drinks at the pub; from spit braais to traditional Xhosa meals prepared in the boma, your dining needs will be taken care of.
At the reserve itself, you can head out on game drives, enjoy birdwatching or put on your boots for a hike through the countryside. Besides the attractions of Grahamstown, try abseiling, fishing, canoeing, 4×4ing, microlighting and much more close by.
Kenton-on-Sea Road (R343), off the N2
046 622 2239, 046 622 2324
www.tembagamereserve.com
Oak Lodge Guest House
(AA Quality Assured Highly Recommended status)
Situated in the Grahamstown suburbs, a homestyle B&B experience awaits at Oak Lodge, within walking distance of the CBD, Rhodes University and many historical attractions.
The lodge can accommodate up to 60 guests in single, double, twin and family rooms. There is 24-hour security and parking, and DStv in the lounges.
During your stay, a variety of tours and adventures can be arranged, from biking routes, canoeing and 4×4 trails, to more leisurely spa pamper sessions. And that’s not forgetting all there is to see and do in Grahamstown itself.
95 Bathurst Street, Grahamstown
046 622 9123, 046 622 2324
www.oaklodgeguesthouse.com
Photography Alamy, Gallo/Gettyimages, istockphoto
(This article was first published in the summer 2014/2015 issue of AA traveller magazine)
